Creating elegant insulated wool coats for Canadian cities didn't happen overnight—it involved two years of design research, countless back-and-forths with suppliers, and a manufacturing facility we could trust.
Behind the Canadian-Made Chelsea & Mayfair Wool Coats: Touring the Vancouver Factory
Our objective was to combine high-density melton wool with a padding of lightweight PrimaLoft Gold insulation, a very rare process without guidebooks or prototypes to work from. We had to figure out a new work methodology, all while maintaining a timeless aesthetic in a winter-suitable design. The process featured dozens of prototypes and involved the Vallier team traveling to the West Coast to meet with the factory operators.
Located on a modest street in Strathcona—Vancouver's oldest residential neighborhood—our carefully-selected factory is one of the city’s long-standing producers of Canadian-made jackets and outerwear. We chose the facility based on its outstanding reputation and its proximity to our wool source, from the Japanese city of Nagoya. If we were going to change the wool-winter-coat game, this facility would be the place to do it.
Thanks to its natural setting, Vancouver is a hotspot for outdoor clothing designers and retailers, while serving as a backdrop for giants of the athleisure industry. The city's diverse economy, Coastal Mountain surroundings, and bustling downtown have helped it become a heavyweight of modern fashion. We kept the city in mind when creating our first wool coat collection—they’re ideal for crisp winter days in the Lower Mainland, padded with enough lightweight insulation for standalone-wear when temperatures dip below freezing.
The Factory Tour
This past summer, we toured the Vancouver facility with their artistic director, who gave us a detailed overview of how our coats are made. Upon arriving to the factory floor, we were introduced to the seamstresses working on our collection, some of whom had been employed by the factory since its opening 40 years ago.
Stacks of fresh-cut melton wool laid on a series of design tables along with multiple Vallier plexiglass templates—every size of the Mayfair and Chelsea wool coats have their own specific template. Cutouts of PrimaLoft Gold insulation and the supple inner lining fabric rested beside the melton wool.
The factory floor was full of true artisans, and a few of them have been working from the beginning days of the place. We witnessed first-hand how these artisans measured and cut each piece of our coats—from the wool exterior sleeve fabric to the balmacaan collar.
Putting It All Together
It’s rare for wool coats to feature an outdoor-centric, technical insulation, and the process of fusing PrimaLoft Active Gold padding to our melton wool took months to iron out. It’s a synthetic insulation that’s easy to move in, evacuates excess moisture and keeps you warm even if it gets wet. We love the feel and texture of wool, and have always wanted to extend the wearing-season of wool coats deeper into winter. The challenge of fusing the insulation to the Japanese wool was difficult but very rewarding.
The soft inner lining fabric covering the PrimaLoft insulation was tacked in place on plexiglass templates, measured again, then placed under a robotic sewing machine. Every seamstress measures three times and cuts once—precision isn’t just a requirement, it’s expected—as once you begin sewing a coat, everything needs to be perfect.
The insulation is held in place using stretch-woven baffles, a stitch-less procedure that weaves fabric in a way to create small pockets the insulation rests in. These should be invisible from the outside on more sophisticated wear like the Chelsea and Mayfair. Working on wool coats in this way was something new for the experienced factory crew. It required great care and attention to make sure the stitching was in line with the minimalist, streamlined aesthetic envisioned by the designers.
The Mayfair & Chelsea Wool Coats
Thick, soft Japanese wool fused seamlessly with warm, dry insulation that stands up to moisture. Premium materials, advanced design, and made in Canada by people with years of expert know-how. There are all sorts of reasons why both the Mayfair and Chelsea wool coats stand apart from the crowd—in their own subtle way, of course.
The Chelsea comes in both black and charcoal, creating a more formal or business look. It’s cut in a way that encourages you to wear it over your blazer or thick Friday sweater. The balmacaan button tab at the collar offers more warmth and an appealing high neckline.
The Mayfair also has a formal-style black version, and a camel colourway that carries real elegance to any occasion. Wear it open when the sun warms things up, or buttoned when the chill is in the air—either way keeps you warm and looking right. Double-breasted and slit at the back, there is a flow to the Mayfair that teases the eye.
The word ‘timeless’ fits with these colour choices—you’ll be able to wear the Chelsea and Mayfair over many seasons, thanks in no small part to the classic hues they come in. Modern urban living has its needs of fashion and function, and these wool coats crafted in Vancouver are warm enough for the winter in any Canadian city and distinguished enough to make the right impression every time.
Brush Maintenance
Long life is what we want for all of our clothes. Japanese melton wool is thick and dense, and needs to be taken care of properly. We’ve included a wool comb to get rid of all the picks and pops that are normal when wearing finer wool garments. With the streamlined silhouettes of both the Chelea and the Mayfair, you’ll want to keep the lines clean and flowing with a good combing now and then.